Directors Choice
Brunei & Borneo
There are some destinations that surprise you. And then there are destinations that completely captivate you.
My recent journey through Brunei and Malaysian Borneo was one of those rare travel experiences that stays with you long after you've returned home. From ancient rainforests and vast cave systems to close encounters with orangoutangs, proboscis monkeys and sun bears, this remarkable adventure revealed a side of Southeast Asia that feels increasingly untouched by the modern world.
For travellers seeking something beyond the ordinary beach holiday or city break, Borneo offers an extraordinary blend of luxury, wildlife, culture and adventure. Here's a glimpse into the journey.
Discovering Brunei: Southeast Asia's Best Kept Secret
My adventure began in Brunei, a fascinating and often-overlooked destination on the northern coast of Borneo.
Stepping into Bandar Seri Begawan, the country's elegant capital, felt like entering another world. Immaculately clean streets, stunning Islamic architecture and a relaxed atmosphere create an immediate sense of calm.
One of the highlights was exploring Kampong Ayer, the world's largest water village. Travelling by boat along the Brunei River, we passed a maze of colourful stilt houses, schools, mosques and shops suspended above the water. Visiting a local family offered a wonderful insight into daily life in this unique community.
The city's magnificent mosques were equally impressive. The gleaming golden domes of Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque and the vast Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque stand as symbols of Brunei's rich heritage and prosperity. Combined with the country's remarkable conservation efforts, it became clear why Brunei is such an appealing introduction to Borneo.
Into the Rainforest: Mulu National Park
Crossing into Malaysian Borneo, we travelled onwards to one of the region's greatest natural treasures: Mulu National Park.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mulu is home to one of the most extensive cave systems on Earth. Arriving here feels like entering a lost world where towering limestone cliffs rise above dense rainforest and rivers carve their way through untouched jungle.
The walk to Deer Cave was unforgettable. Following elevated boardwalks through ancient rainforest, the anticipation builds until suddenly the vast cave entrance appears before you. The scale is almost impossible to comprehend.
Yet the real spectacle comes at dusk.
As darkness begins to fall, millions of bats emerge from the cave in swirling formations across the evening sky. Watching this natural phenomenon from the bat observatory was one of the most memorable moments of the entire trip.
The following day brought more exploration by longboat, gliding along jungle rivers towards Wind Cave and Clearwater Cave. Deep inside these immense caverns, intricate limestone formations create a subterranean world of extraordinary beauty.
Afterwards, swimming in crystal-clear water beneath giant rainforest trees felt like a reward straight from a nature documentary.
Kota Kinabalu: Gateway to Sabah
From the wilderness of Mulu, we flew to Kota Kinabalu, the vibrant capital of Sabah.
Set against a backdrop of mountains and the South China Sea, Kota Kinabalu offers an appealing blend of cultures, cuisines and coastal charm. A stroll through the city revealed bustling markets, waterfront restaurants and fascinating colonial history.
One of the unexpected highlights was Signal Hill, where elevated walkways wind through tropical greenery to panoramic viewpoints overlooking the city, islands and ocean beyond.
As the sun began to set over the South China Sea, it was easy to understand why this corner of Borneo has become such a favourite among discerning travellers.
Meeting Borneo's Most Famous Residents
No visit to Borneo would be complete without encountering its iconic wildlife.
In Sepilok, we visited the world-renowned Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, where orphaned and rescued orangutans are given the opportunity to return to life in the wild.
Walking through the rainforest towards the feeding platform, there is a genuine sense of excitement in the air. Then suddenly, movement in the trees. An orangutan appears. Then another.
Watching these magnificent creatures swing effortlessly through the forest canopy is a truly emotional experience. Their intelligence, curiosity and almost human expressions create an unforgettable connection.
Equally moving was our visit to the nearby Sun Bear Conservation Centre. Seeing the world's smallest bear species and learning about ongoing conservation efforts highlighted both the challenges and successes of protecting Borneo's extraordinary biodiversity.
That evening, surrounded by rainforest sounds, we ventured out on a guided night walk in search of nocturnal wildlife. Every rustle in the undergrowth hinted at another fascinating discovery waiting in the darkness.
Cruising the Kinabatangan River
For many wildlife enthusiasts, the Kinabatangan River is the highlight of any Borneo itinerary.
Travelling by boat through mangrove forests and winding waterways, we arrived at the remote village of Abai, accessible only by river.
Here, life moves at a gentler pace.
The surrounding rainforest is alive with wildlife, and every river excursion offers the possibility of a remarkable sighting. As we cruised through the waterways, proboscis monkeys leapt between branches, hornbills soared overhead and crocodiles basked along the riverbanks.
As dusk settled, thousands of fireflies illuminated the mangroves like tiny floating lanterns. The silence, broken only by the sounds of the forest, created one of the most magical moments of the trip.
Further upriver in Sukau, our wildlife encounters continued.
Each cruise felt like a real-life safari. Every bend in the river brought new anticipation. Macaques, kingfishers, eagles and monitor lizards appeared with remarkable frequency, while the possibility of spotting wild orangutans or pygmy elephants added an extra layer of excitement.
For nature lovers and photographers, there are few destinations in Asia that can rival the Kinabatangan experience.
A Tropical Island Finale
After days spent immersed in rainforest and wildlife, our journey concluded on beautiful Gaya Island.
Just a short boat ride from Kota Kinabalu, this tropical paradise offered the perfect contrast to our jungle adventures.
Nestled within the protected waters of the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, the island combines luxury accommodation with pristine natural surroundings. Crystal-clear waters, coral reefs and lush forest create an idyllic setting for relaxation.
Whether kayaking along the coastline, snorkelling above colourful reefs or simply enjoying the tranquillity of a private beach, Gaya Island provided the perfect ending to an extraordinary journey.
A visit to the Marine Ecology Research Centre also highlighted the inspiring conservation work being undertaken to restore coral ecosystems throughout the region.
Why Borneo Should Be On Your Travel Wish List
What makes Borneo so special is its incredible diversity.
In just one journey you can experience ancient rainforests, spectacular wildlife, fascinating cultures, luxury resorts, river safaris, tropical islands and some of the world's most remarkable natural wonders.
This is not simply a holiday. It is an adventure filled with moments that inspire, surprise and stay with you forever.
For travellers looking for meaningful experiences, authentic wildlife encounters and destinations that remain refreshingly uncrowded, Brunei and Borneo deliver in abundance.
At Haslemere Travel, we specialise in creating tailor-made journeys that combine the very best of luxury, adventure and discovery. Whether you are dreaming of seeing orangutans in the wild, exploring hidden rainforest lodges or relaxing on a tropical island after an unforgettable safari, we can help create the perfect itinerary.
If this journey has inspired you, please get in contact with the team on 01428 658777 so that we can start planning your own Borneo adventure.
Ray
